Khi?...Kani?...Kha!

= village ways of saying: why?... how much (pronounce "a" as in "apple")?... yes!

All I can say is, what a life changing experience! Saturday morning, Noushig and I were picked up by Yerem and his beautiful wife Valentina, who manage LCO, the program through which Noush worked in the month of July. They took us to the Mashootka (public transportation here) station and we headed to VARTENIS, the "city" outside AZAD, the gyugh where Noushig worked. Prior to arriving, however, I experienced several new things: 1) In order to pump gas in Armenia, everyone has to exit from the car in case it blows up while they're filling up-- normal! 2) I saw my first fight in Armenia, the first of many according to Noush. 3) Finally, the dialect transformed!

In Vartenis, we bought fresh pork from the butcher, veggies and fruit, sok (soda) and oghi to take with us to the village. We spent about $25 and fed about 30 people! After taking unpaved roads with a taxi to Azad, we were warmly greeted by the Stepanian family: Zorab (husband), Gohar (wife), Anna (daughter), Vahan (son), Arsen (son), and Bobbi (dog). Noush is absolutely adored by everyone in the village, and in about five minutes, we were surrounded by all of the village children. We walked with them to the school which Noush had been reconstructing (wow, they've done so much, but there's so much more to do). We played volleyball with them for an hour in their very dusty gym (you can see the dust particles in the pictures I took) and headed home for khorovats. From then on, let the oghi drinking and eating begin! The town sheriff, the town principle, as well as various relatives of theirs joined us. The best meal I've had so far! I drank a toast to them (one of about 15). Noush and I were planning on leaving later that afternoon, but they wouldn't let us leave. Before I forget, some things you learn in the gyugh: all of your hygiene needs go out the door, no running water, no toilet (it's an outhouse), all sense of sanitation gone, etc. etc. Luckily I have years of girl scouting and camping experience under my belt so I didn't mind at all. You just learn to adjust. Plus, I think the oghi drinking kills any bacteria which may have arisen. So after a nap, we decided to stay the night in Azad. In our honor, oh yes, gar mortan (killed and skinned in a lamb). I saw it alive, then dead, I avoided the decapitation, but I was fascinated by the art of the skinning and butchering. Mind you, this is all happening around 1am at this point. And then, let the kef begin! We listened to Aram Asatouryan, danced, ate, and drank more. Noush and I went to bed at around 3:30am, but they didn't stop! We left at 7am the next morning and headed back to Yerevan.

In Yerevan, my bro, mama, and I went to Echimiatzin. I saw the spear that poked the side of Jesus while he hung on the cross, as well as a piece of the Crown of Thorns and Noah's Ark. Next stop was Sardarabad, a monument dedicated to fighting off Turkish invaders. It was very hot there, which our doorman described as, "Hayastani Africa na endegh." On the way back, we saw Aram's grave as well. At night, we ate dinner at a restaurant overlooking a valley and listened to great live music. Finally, we finished the night off at a cafe with some Birthright members, Noush's new group, which included Sevannah (Leanna's cousin, Lilo's friend!), and also met up with Raffi (Megh, Armen's friend). Oh yes, and Lilo, I want to Anoushik's, Arsineh's, and Ani's dance performance Friday night; I have pictures with all of them to show you!

This morning, both Noush and Shaunt left, Noush for Gyumri and Shaunt for SF. Sad day! Noush will be back on the weekend though. Until then, we have Lake Sevan and Kharabagh planned.